Some of the biggest jewelery houses, such as Chopard in Cannes, Cartier in Venice and Bvlgari, which will support the Toronto Festival for the first time in September, have become known as major sponsors of the festival. But what are the options for small independent jewelers who cannot afford such an expensive partnership?
Several Italian brands, including Nardi and Vhernier, found an opportunity on the red carpet of the Venice Film Festival. Scheduled from August 31 to September 10 this year, the event, also known as Venice Mostra (Show in English), is part of the Venice Biennale art exhibition.
“Big brands have dominated film festivals,” said Alberto Nardi, a third-generation member of the family’s jewelry business. “We can’t compete, so we have to play to our strengths. First, being here in Venice, and second, doing something original and different. “
For example, last year, Belgian actress Cécile de France, who starred in Illusions Perdues, wore Nardi earrings to a film festival photocall. The set was made of yellow gold and enamel, accented with turquoise and pink sapphires, and was called Maschera (mask in English). Its design was inspired by rings featuring enamel masked faces, popular in Venice in the 1700s.
“We feel close to the talents we admire, appreciate us and truly enjoy wearing our jewels,” Nardi said.
Milan-based brand Vhernier takes a similar approach. “We don’t have a contract, we don’t pay anyone. Celebrities who wear Vhernier simply wear it because they like it,” said Isabella Traglio, deputy general manager of the brand. said in a video call.
The Maison’s sculptural creations, such as the rosy Verso ear clip worn by Anglo-French actress Stacey Martin at the festival in 2018 and the white gold Janco bracelet worn by Italian actress Matilde Joli in 2016, House founded in 1984 by a sculptor and goldsmith.
Vhernier has also been exposed on the big screen. Jane Fonda donned the style in her 2018 movie Book Club. Normally, filmmakers would ask jewelers to pay for such placements, but Tralio said the opportunity arose thanks to Fonda, who wore the brand frequently, and that there was no financial deal. said.
“We can’t and don’t play the big brand games that usually get big celebrities,” Tralio said. “We rely on new talent.”
But new talent like that can put the brand in the spotlight.
“A brand that throws a gem at someone probably won’t get their investment back,” said CEO of brand development and strategy firm Équité and professor of luxury strategy at Pepperdine University in Malibu, California. , Daniel Langer, wrote: email. “But if it is done wisely – if values are aligned, enough content is created and available on social media, a single event can be amplified into a greater opportunity for communication. “
Milan-based brand Rubeus announced last year that the Maison loaned Italian actress Benedetta Porcaroli hexagon earrings and cabochon rings with sapphires, emeralds and diamonds when she appeared in her Venice Festival debut, The Catholic School. said something like that happened.
Inspired by the kidnapping and murder of two girls in Italy in 1975, the buzz surrounding this controversial film is the starring actress and jewelry of social media, Italian versions of Vogue and Elle. “Social media is making the event closer to everyone and potential clients,” said Natalia Bondarenko, the company’s creative director.
As a result, according to the brand, there has been a resurgence of interest in its first high jewelery collection, which was unveiled in 2019, but saw little opportunity for attention in the early days of the pandemic.
Rubeus’ presence in Venice on such an important occasion has inspired the brand to create a range of fragrances and collaborate with Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua, a company specializing in fabrics founded in 2017. continued a series of capsule collections of accessories and clothing. 19th century Venice.
Of course, Venice is also the muse of large luxury homes. For example, last year Dolce & Gabbana exhibited its High Jewelery and Haute Couture collections in the city.
And this year, to commemorate a charitable donation to restore the pulpit of St. Mark’s Basilica damaged by the devastating floods of 2019, Pomellato presents a collection of porphyry rings. , the brand dressed Tiffany Haddish for the festival’s red carpet.)
“Venice is the most magical festival, but logistically challenging,” said London-based stylist Amy Cloysdill. He has also worked at film festivals and the British Academy Film Awards (known as BAFTA).
“Getting on and off a pier and riding a bobbing boat means you can’t wear huge, heavy gowns that are many meters long,” she writes. It will be preserved for Cannes.”
Logistical difficulties like these are good news for some Italian jewelery houses like Crivelli, who know how to deal with the complexity of the city.
“Our proximity to Venice has always allowed us to stand on the red carpet. This continued engagement has strengthened our relationships with talent and their entourage who know they can count on us.” ‘ Business, wrote in an email. Known for its gold heart-shaped pendants, the Maison was founded in the 1970s by his father in the jewelery town of Valenza, between Milan and Turin, and has a flagship store in Milan.
At the Venice Festival, Crivelli accessorized Norwegian film director and actress Mona Fastvold in 2020 and 2021, and Naomi Watts and Raffey Cassidy in 2018.
Given Cartier’s sponsorship role, the festival’s relationship with a small Italian jewelery brand may seem unusual, but Cartier seems more concerned with the festival’s cultural ties than red carpet opportunities. “Our partnership with La Mostra goes beyond the red carpet,” said Arnaud Calles, Cartier’s chief marketing officer, in a video interview. He highlighted how the festival provides a culturally rich platform to entertain customers and friends of jewelry houses.
Roberto Cicatto, President of the Venice Biennale, commented in an email: This award is given to those who are considered to have made a great contribution to modern filmmaking. It was first awarded in 2007, but Cartier will start announcing it in 2021.
Luca Sorca, a luxury analyst at research firm Sanford C. Bernstein, wrote in an email that it’s not uncommon for brands to want to associate themselves with the art of cinema. It is the disconnect between that universal language and cost. ”
But last year, when Jennifer Lopez showed up at the festival in Cartier diamonds and Ben Affleck, Cartier was definitely delighted. A social media post about Mr. Lopez’s visit generated $2 million in media effect for Cartier.
Still, Nardi expressed his sorrow over how the marketing machine has overwhelmed the magic of cinema—and the magic of the gem world. “I think it devalues our product,” he said.
“I grew up hearing stories of Elizabeth Taylor and Grace Kelly coming to Venice and buying jewelry from our store, but that world is gone now.”